BY Clay Larroy
Do
you feel like it is time for a short vacation? Once you decide to travel,
how good you plan the trip will help you feel comfortable and be comfortable at
your destination. Not only will you feel less anxiety before the trip, but you
can rest assured that once you arrive where you're going you will have a good
understanding of what's going on there. When you need to
plan a vacation contact me!
THE HEART OF SOUTH AFRICA
By CINDY LOU DALE
DRAKENSBERG MOUNTAIN RANGE - The soul of the Zulu Kingdom
The following morning I traveled north-east, in the direction of the famed Drakensberg Mountains. Its awe-inspiring basalt cliffs, which are snow-capped in winter, tower over riverine bush, lush yellow-wood forests and cascading waterfalls which form a massive barrier separating KwaZulu Natal from the Kingdom of Lesotho.
The only access to Lesotho is via the Sani Pass which, at the top, boasts the highest pub in Africa, at some 3,000 meters above sea level. This spectacular mountain pass is the gateway to the scenic "Roof of Africa" route that links the dramatic scenery of the Drakensberg with the mountains of northern Lesotho. The road is treacherous and requires a 4x4, especially in bad weather.
The 600,000-acre mountainous region known as the uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park (uKhahlamba means Drakensberg in Zulu) has been preserved and venerated for eons since the San Bushmen roamed the slopes. Tens of thousands of paintings depicting their daily life can be found on rock faces - now a World Heritage site.
The fearless traveler may wish to conquer the cliffs in summer or ice-climbing in winter and the adrenaline junkies may prefer repelling, white water rafting or a helicopter ride to view the mountains from above. But I opted for what I thought would be the genteel and leisurely pace of walking one of the many well-marked hiking routes. Our trekker-guide, Jade, a white haired and sweetly unobtrusive elderly lady, sheppard my group into a single file line and marched us for the day at a frightening pace.
The Drakensberg is truly a hiker’s paradise - a high mountain range is a wilderness that renews your body and soul. This world of sheer cliffs, deeply incised valleys and crystal clear rivers, is where the bearded vulture, the black eagle and numerous species of antelope, find refuse. This range was once also home to the San Bushmen, as is evident in the thousands of rock paintings.
The following morning I traveled north-east, in the direction of the famed Drakensberg Mountains. Its awe-inspiring basalt cliffs, which are snow-capped in winter, tower over riverine bush, lush yellow-wood forests and cascading waterfalls which form a massive barrier separating KwaZulu Natal from the Kingdom of Lesotho.
The only access to Lesotho is via the Sani Pass which, at the top, boasts the highest pub in Africa, at some 3,000 meters above sea level. This spectacular mountain pass is the gateway to the scenic "Roof of Africa" route that links the dramatic scenery of the Drakensberg with the mountains of northern Lesotho. The road is treacherous and requires a 4x4, especially in bad weather.
The 600,000-acre mountainous region known as the uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park (uKhahlamba means Drakensberg in Zulu) has been preserved and venerated for eons since the San Bushmen roamed the slopes. Tens of thousands of paintings depicting their daily life can be found on rock faces - now a World Heritage site.
The fearless traveler may wish to conquer the cliffs in summer or ice-climbing in winter and the adrenaline junkies may prefer repelling, white water rafting or a helicopter ride to view the mountains from above. But I opted for what I thought would be the genteel and leisurely pace of walking one of the many well-marked hiking routes. Our trekker-guide, Jade, a white haired and sweetly unobtrusive elderly lady, sheppard my group into a single file line and marched us for the day at a frightening pace.
The Drakensberg is truly a hiker’s paradise - a high mountain range is a wilderness that renews your body and soul. This world of sheer cliffs, deeply incised valleys and crystal clear rivers, is where the bearded vulture, the black eagle and numerous species of antelope, find refuse. This range was once also home to the San Bushmen, as is evident in the thousands of rock paintings.
The hikes offered range from a gentle stroll to extremely
strenuous. Popular hikes include the Giant’s Cup Trail at Cobham (3, 4 or 5
nights - 59km/37 miles), a truly magnificent trail designed to give the hiker
as much diversity as possible, the Thukela Gorge hike (2 - 3 hours, 7km/4
miles) at Royal Natal, which hikes through alternative stretches of protea
(national flower), grassland and forest with the only scenic rival being the
view from the top of the Thukela Falls and the thrilling Cathedral Peak trail
(6 - 7 hours, 10km/6 miles) that affords the experienced hiker a chance to
stand on one of the major free-standing peaks in the Drakensberg.
The following afternoon I returned to Durban.
The following afternoon I returned to Durban.
FIT FOR A KING - Ethnic food for the soul
On my last night in South Africa, I decided to experience the Zulu culture one more time and headed into the ghettos with my guide, who promised me the best Shebeen (African bar) in the province.
Matilda, a rotund Zulu woman clad in a leopard-print pant suit, runs a true African Shebeen - hot, dark, and filled with African gewgaws with drinks served in worn enamel mugs. The local residents crowd her small establishment, "kicking back" with potent Durban Cane "for pain" (a fruity rum punch with a stick of sugar cane) and live, pulsating, African music. Ignore the African way of tortoise-speed service, and do like the locals and enjoy the experience.
Matilda and her husband, Philemon, sweat like diamond miners in a kitchen the size of a small sailing galley, putting together the "Shebeen Cuisine" they had become famous for; including their trademark dish of Durban’s "Bunny-chow", which is a thick lamb curry in a hollowed-out hunk of bread.
For starters I ordered Mopani worms, coated in beer batter, flash fried and served with a sweetly overpowering chili sauce and a side-dish of Vhuswa pap (a traditional porridge, made with maize meal), washed down with several stout beers served in bottles to douse the chili sauce. How do the worm’s taste? I hear someone ask. They are very chewy and taste, well, just like you’d expect worms to taste - slightly scaly, crunchy skin, and a bit earthy. An hour later I was told there were two items available for a main course. Matilda’s special, which she claimed it to be Nelson Mandela’s favorite, was again, Mopani worms and Mogodu (black tripe and wild African spinach stew). I opted for choice number two: ostrich steak and cubed crocodile tail, grilled quickly and served with a cherry-peppercorn sauce and nothing much else - presented on a battered tin plate. Dessert was a fabulous vinegar pudding, comprised of sponge cake with a sweet and sour sauce.
Later Matilda brought a bottle of aptly names "Jungle Juice" to my table. She confided that it was in fact apricot brandy distilled in a back room. She settled her large frame into a comfortable position and said; "Now the madam and Matilda, we drink". And so, we did.
The following morning I checked out of my hotel and left my luggage in the baggage area. I strolled down to the Marine Parade with a heavy heart. I found a bench under a palm tree and ate a bunny-chow. I watched the local women meet and chat - a colorful and noisy explosion of skirts and tribal beads, who shrieked with hilarity at the gossip being told. At that moment I realized I was smitten with this beautiful country, its golden beaches and its warm ocean. I left for the airport knowing I had lost my heart to the spirited and proud Zulu people.
On my last night in South Africa, I decided to experience the Zulu culture one more time and headed into the ghettos with my guide, who promised me the best Shebeen (African bar) in the province.
Matilda, a rotund Zulu woman clad in a leopard-print pant suit, runs a true African Shebeen - hot, dark, and filled with African gewgaws with drinks served in worn enamel mugs. The local residents crowd her small establishment, "kicking back" with potent Durban Cane "for pain" (a fruity rum punch with a stick of sugar cane) and live, pulsating, African music. Ignore the African way of tortoise-speed service, and do like the locals and enjoy the experience.
Matilda and her husband, Philemon, sweat like diamond miners in a kitchen the size of a small sailing galley, putting together the "Shebeen Cuisine" they had become famous for; including their trademark dish of Durban’s "Bunny-chow", which is a thick lamb curry in a hollowed-out hunk of bread.
For starters I ordered Mopani worms, coated in beer batter, flash fried and served with a sweetly overpowering chili sauce and a side-dish of Vhuswa pap (a traditional porridge, made with maize meal), washed down with several stout beers served in bottles to douse the chili sauce. How do the worm’s taste? I hear someone ask. They are very chewy and taste, well, just like you’d expect worms to taste - slightly scaly, crunchy skin, and a bit earthy. An hour later I was told there were two items available for a main course. Matilda’s special, which she claimed it to be Nelson Mandela’s favorite, was again, Mopani worms and Mogodu (black tripe and wild African spinach stew). I opted for choice number two: ostrich steak and cubed crocodile tail, grilled quickly and served with a cherry-peppercorn sauce and nothing much else - presented on a battered tin plate. Dessert was a fabulous vinegar pudding, comprised of sponge cake with a sweet and sour sauce.
Later Matilda brought a bottle of aptly names "Jungle Juice" to my table. She confided that it was in fact apricot brandy distilled in a back room. She settled her large frame into a comfortable position and said; "Now the madam and Matilda, we drink". And so, we did.
The following morning I checked out of my hotel and left my luggage in the baggage area. I strolled down to the Marine Parade with a heavy heart. I found a bench under a palm tree and ate a bunny-chow. I watched the local women meet and chat - a colorful and noisy explosion of skirts and tribal beads, who shrieked with hilarity at the gossip being told. At that moment I realized I was smitten with this beautiful country, its golden beaches and its warm ocean. I left for the airport knowing I had lost my heart to the spirited and proud Zulu people.
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As my plane landed at Heathrow I recalled Zuma’s words "The madam, she is going to the heart of my land. The city she is only the pulse." The Zulu people had touched me with their warm hospitality and friendly smiles. The South African’s I found remarkable in their curious lack of urgency and their dogged determination to squeeze every moment out of a day. This was an experience which will linger long, together with the memories of their vast blue sky and baking sun.
REFERENCE SITES:
“Besides, I'm a gypsy at heart and I like to travel around.”
Reba McEntire
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