HALIFAX, "CITY OF TREES"
BY CLAY LARROY
Traveling can be an important
part of your life, whether for business or for pleasure. Take time each day to
alleviate stress while traveling or
vacationing and you will thank yourself for it when you get back home. With all
the chaos, jet-lag, partying and other excitement of travel comes a whole lot
of stress on your mind and body. By the time most vacations are over, another
one is needed to recover so taking a few minutes each day to rejuvenate will
make it easier for you to resume your normal life when it's all over. When you want to
plan a vacation contact me!
Read the article below for a remarkable
perspective on Halifax.
Halifax: The nautical heart of Nova Scotia
By
This
year, a century since the sinking of Titanic,
its strategic oceanfront position will come into focus. After Belfast-built Titanic went down 375 from the coast of
Newfoundland, on 15 April 1912, three cable-laying steamships were sent out
from Halifax to recover bodies and possessions from the liner. Between them, Mackay-Bennett, Minia and Montmagny recovered
327 of the 1,514 victims. When the ships returned to port, the city's church
bells tolled, and harbor flags flew at half-mast. The local curling rink became
the venue for embalming and identification, and 150 unclaimed bodies found a
final resting place in three of Halifax's graveyards.
To get
a sense of the city's part in the Titanic tragedy, visit the permanent Titanic exhibition at the excellent Maritime Museum of the Atlantic (001 902 424 7490;museum.gov.ns.ca) at 1675 Lower Water
Street. Moving rather than macabre, this collection of photographs and
artefacts includes a tiny pair of leather shoes belonging to the "unknown
child", a well-preserved deckchair and large pieces of oak carving from the
entrance to the first-class lounge. The museum also has a beautiful collection
of old ocean vessels in the small craft gallery, and an exhibit about Nova
Scotia native, Samuel Cunard, founder of the eponymous steam ship company.
From
the museum, go south along the waterfront to see distinctive ships such as CSS Acadia (docked outside), a long-serving
research craft that charted Eastern Canada's remotest coastlines, plus the
blade-like prow of HMCS Sackville,
a Second World War Flower-class corvette.
Walk
along the harbor towards the cruise-ship terminal for Pier 21, where many
migrants to Canada first landed. The Museum
of Immigration (001
902 425 7770; pier21.ca) recreates early 20th-century
life in the humble customs shed known as "the gateway to Canada"; the
museum is currently under renovation, disrupting some of the exhibits.
Walk
back north along Lower
Water Street for
a contemporary taste of multicultural Nova Scotia at Sea-Dee's (001 902 818 1970; sea-dees.com). This little dockside kiosk
at number 1325 sells folk music from Nova Scotia's vibrant music scene, as well
as music from the French-speaking Acadian community from Maritime Canada.
For
lunch, pop next door to Seaport
Farmer's Market
(halifaxfarmersmarket.com)
for fish'n'chips, waffles and myriad maple-soaked sweet treats. Established in
1750, it is claimed to be the oldest in North America.
If you
fancy something more substantial, continue up Lower Water Street, turn left
onto Sackville Street and right onto Argyle Street for The Five
Fishermen at
number 1740 (001 902 422 4421; fivefishermen.com). It serves superb
grilled fish, oysters, scallops and Nova Scotia lobster, in curious
surroundings. This former funeral parlor sports stained glass windows that once
belonged to the chapel of rest. The dumb waiter operates on a pulley system
designed to transport coffins. It's a sobering thought that victims of both the
Titanic disaster and the 1917 explosion of the SS Mont Blanc that almost
levelled Halifax, passed through these doors.
Completing
a Titanic tour requires a brief interlude in a
taxi (for about C$10/£6.70), to reach the graves of the victims. The three
cemeteries are set within a few blocks of each other about two miles north-west
of Downtown. Alternatively, use Metro Transit bus 2 (halifax.ca/metrotransit;
singles C$2.25/£1).
The
hilltop spot, Fairview,
is a moving, meditative space, home to the largest number of graves, elegantly
laid out in curved lines recalling the bow of a ship. From here, walk back into
town south along Windsor
Street. Just before you reach Downtown, turn left onto Cunard Street and cut across the well-kept Halifax Common, to
explore the immense Halifax
Citadel (001 902
426 5080).
This
spot, with fine views across the harbor and city, has been home to no fewer
than four forts. The current star-shaped stone fortification has been restored
to its mid-18th century grandeur.
Costumed
guides – bagpipers among them – complete the historic picture. If you're here
at noon, brace yourself; the daily firing of one of the citadel's cannons
shakes the city right down to the quayside.
Fresh Cuts
Neon-lit Argyle Street is home to artsy bar-landmarks such as
The Foggy Goggle and The Economy Shoe Shop, but The Drawing Room (part of the Henry House Restaurant
and Pub at 1222 Barrington Street; 001 902 423 5660; henryhouse.ca)
makes a worthwhile diversion. Try a Tickle Me Rhuby cocktail (C$14/£9) with
rhubarb cordial, gin and lime.The Bicycle Thief (001 902 425 7993; bicyclethief.ca) serves modern North American-Italian dishes that make the most of Nova Scotia's bountiful land and sea produce – lemon gremolata-crusted haddock, native oysters and braised local rabbit.
Travel essentials
Getting there
You can
fly non-stop from Heathrow to Halifax on Air Canada (0871 220 1111; aircanada.com),
and – starting in May – on Air Transat from
Gatwick, bookable through Canadian Affair (020-7616 9184; canadianaffair.com).
The writer travelled as a guest of Nova Scotia Tourism (novascotiatourism.com)
and Bridge & Wickers (020-7386 4610; bridgeandwickers.co.uk).
The latter has three-night trips to Halifax from £875 per person, with Heathrow
flights and B&B at the Halliburton hotel.
Go guided
Tattle
Tours (001 902 494 0525; tattletours.ca) offers a regular walking
Ghost Tour of Halifax (May-October, weather dependent: Wednesday-Sunday,
7.30-9.30pm) for C$10/£6.70, along with bespoke historical and Titanic itineraries. A new service "I
Heart Bikes" offers guided bike tours (C$45/£30, three hours) and rental
from C$9/£6 per day (001 902 406 7774; iheartbikeshfx.com).
REFERENCE SITE:
I'm originally from Nova Scotia.
Anne Murray
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